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© Colin Ormston 2005

 

RICHARD AND THE LIMOUSIN

Richard, son of the celebrated Eleanor of Aquitaine, came to the throne in 1189, and inherited an empire which encompassed Normandy and Aquitaine. In theory, these lands made him obeisant to his 'superior', the King of France. In 1194 the two kings, who had formerly been allies, went to war over these territories. With his crushingly superior military strength, Richard forced Philippe Auguste into a truce, imposed and arbitrated by the Pope. He then decided to carry the war into the Limousin to teach a lesson to the Vicornte of Limoges (supposed to be his vassal) whose loyalty was wearing under pressure from the king of France.

On 20th March 1199, Richard laid siege to the Chateau of Chalus-Chabrol, a keystone in the circle of fortresses protecting the South West of the Vicornte. He was wounded shortly afterwards by a crossbow bolt and died on 6th April. Before he died, he secured a pardon for the garrison and the crossbowman. However, following his death, the entire garrison was promptly hung and the crossbowman was flayed alive!

One possible reason for Richard's zeal in besieging this stronghold is that he coveted the treasure that the Viscount of Limoges was supposed to have unearthed there. There may well be a shred of truth in the tale since the area had been mined for gold since antiquity.

THE ROUTE OF RICHARD THE LIONHEART

The route starts from the edge of the Charente (Rochebrune) shown right, and then crosses the Vienne to the XIIIc and XVc fortress castle of Rochechouart, and its fine contemporary art museum.

The route then goes South West to the Romanesque church of Salles Lavauguyon with marvellous XIIc frescoes. In a clearing in the forest is Chateau de Brie, (shown left) which has a splendid granite spiral staircase.





From here the route heads to Montbrun, one of the finest fortified castles in the Limousin (sadly not open to the public). Then to Chalus, with the XIIIc Chalus-Maulmont in the heart of the old town and, overlooking the Tardoire valley, the now ruined Chateau of Chalus- Chabrol (XI-XVIIc), site of the Lionheart's death. Richards remains were placed finally at the Abbey of Fontevraud with his father, Henry II Plantagenet. East of Chalus are the ruins of the ancient feudal fortresses of Lastours and Les Cars, then Nexon, with its church and XVIIc castle and stables. South is the Romanesque church and the mysterious monks' cemetery of Le Chalard, and just inside the Perigord are the fairy tale turrets of the Chateau of Jumilhac, (shown right).

Then the route goes East to the 'china town' of Samt-Yrieix-la-Perche, with its XVc and XVIc houses, a ruined tower from the 100 Years War and a wonderful china museum. Further East is Coussac-Bonneval, an XIc fortress destroyed in the 100 Years War, rebuilt in the XVc and XVIIc.

Finally the route goes South to Segur-Le-Chateau, classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, with its XVc and XVIc woodframed houses and turrets. The Route Richard Coeur de Lion ends at Pompadour, home to the National Stud.

*Reproduced from France News*

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